I am mounting 4 akurum high cabinets on a rail, and am a little concerned. Granted IKEA has millions of installed units this way, but it looks cheesy.
The rail is metal and in 4 wood studs with 3 inch lag bolts. I'm sure it would support my 200 lbs.
BUT, the 90 degree brackets that hold the cabinet to the rail are held on by 2 - 10mmx4mm screws on each side. I'm no engineer, but particle board's strength is in compression, not in tension. These 4 little screws are supporting the weight of the 39" cabinet and all the contents are a terribly weak link.
Granted, it may work, but wouldn't it be better to use a ledger of some sort, just like the base cabinets. I've got a piece of 3/4 x 3x4 angle iron that i'm thinking of using to support the base of these cabinets. It allows the top connections to just prevent the cabinet from tipping out, not bearing the load. It will be hidden behind the trim board that will also be hiding the under cabinet lighting, so it won't be visible.
It a ledger is good for the bottom cabinets, why is it not relevant for the upper cabinets? The ledger could go across the rear base of the unit (the backing panel would be 2 inches shorter) and tie into the base and the sides - real structural meat.
I'm not confident in the suggested mounting method.
Has anyone beefed up the mounting like this? Or worse, had a cabinet pull loose? I also want to use little L brackets and toggle bolts at the top to ensure that the cabinet won't tip off the wall if the little bracket screws tear out.
I will be installing 2 high cabinets on either side, and they are going to sit on feet and catch 2 studs each, but I'm goign to run a bar of 1/8 inch steel across the back (screwed into the side panels) lag that to the studs and use self tapping at the the included 90 degree angle brackets to tie in.
I'm in California, so I have to know that these things won't come down in a shaker. Dynamic loads make all these static load calculations and certifications IKEA has made/done irrelevant.
It may just be easier to install a 1/4 inch plywood backing to all the cabinets - screwed into the sides base and top of the frame all the way around (not those silly brads). That way I can lag through at each stud and know that the entire cabinet won't go nowhere.
Anyone lived through a shaker with IKEA cabinets on the walls?
How did they do?
The rail is metal and in 4 wood studs with 3 inch lag bolts. I'm sure it would support my 200 lbs.
BUT, the 90 degree brackets that hold the cabinet to the rail are held on by 2 - 10mmx4mm screws on each side. I'm no engineer, but particle board's strength is in compression, not in tension. These 4 little screws are supporting the weight of the 39" cabinet and all the contents are a terribly weak link.
Granted, it may work, but wouldn't it be better to use a ledger of some sort, just like the base cabinets. I've got a piece of 3/4 x 3x4 angle iron that i'm thinking of using to support the base of these cabinets. It allows the top connections to just prevent the cabinet from tipping out, not bearing the load. It will be hidden behind the trim board that will also be hiding the under cabinet lighting, so it won't be visible.
It a ledger is good for the bottom cabinets, why is it not relevant for the upper cabinets? The ledger could go across the rear base of the unit (the backing panel would be 2 inches shorter) and tie into the base and the sides - real structural meat.
I'm not confident in the suggested mounting method.
Has anyone beefed up the mounting like this? Or worse, had a cabinet pull loose? I also want to use little L brackets and toggle bolts at the top to ensure that the cabinet won't tip off the wall if the little bracket screws tear out.
I will be installing 2 high cabinets on either side, and they are going to sit on feet and catch 2 studs each, but I'm goign to run a bar of 1/8 inch steel across the back (screwed into the side panels) lag that to the studs and use self tapping at the the included 90 degree angle brackets to tie in.
I'm in California, so I have to know that these things won't come down in a shaker. Dynamic loads make all these static load calculations and certifications IKEA has made/done irrelevant.
It may just be easier to install a 1/4 inch plywood backing to all the cabinets - screwed into the sides base and top of the frame all the way around (not those silly brads). That way I can lag through at each stud and know that the entire cabinet won't go nowhere.
Anyone lived through a shaker with IKEA cabinets on the walls?
How did they do?